Mt.Everest

View Everest and the surrounding Himalaya from favourite Sherpa viewpoints in the spectacular Thame and Gokyo Valleys. From jagged, snow-capped peaks, to Nepal’s largest glacier pouring down from the flanks of Mt Cho Oyu (8018m). Flying into Lukla we hike up to the Sherpa Capital of Namche Bazaar, visit the Hillary Hospital and Schools in the nearby villages of Kunde and Khumjung . Then we turn off the tourist trail and into the stunning Gokyo Valley – flanked by soaring peaks and turquoise lakes we will go to the some of the best and least visited Everest viewpoints in the Khumbu. We will then cross the beautiful Renjo La Pass and visit the monasteries of Thame, looking up to the still used Tibetan trading route of the Nangpa La (Pass).
This walk is designed to take you to some of the most incredible mountain scenery in the world, with the time to acclimatise safely and to be able to stop, absorb the view and take your photos. You will be accompanied by both highly experienced local Sherpa guides and an Australian guide/doctor.

View from Gokyo

Accomodation will be in comfortable teahouses and porters will be provided to carry your personal belongings and extra photographic equipment (in accordance with the Porter Protection Society Guidelines).

Brief Itinery
Day 1: Arrive Kathmandu – greeted at the airport and escorted to your accomodation at the Tibet Guest House in Thamel (link). Group dinner provided.
Day 2: Kathmandu Sightseeing – Boudinnath, Pashaputinath, Swayambbunath, Kathmandu Durbar Square. Escorted by our guide you may choose any or all of these sights to visit.
Day 3: Fly to Lukla – hike to Phakding. Accomodation in teahouse
Day 4: Hike to Namche Bazaar
Day 5: Acclimatisation Day/Hike to Kunde/Khumjung for photos/visit to Hillary hospital and school.
Day 6: Hike to Dole in Gokyo Valley
Day 7: Hike to Macchermo
Day 8: Hike to Gokyo
Day 9: Gokyo Ri/ Rest Day
Day 10: Hike to 5th Lake/ Everest-Cho Oyu Viewpoint return Gokyo
Day 11: Cross the Renjo La to Lungde
Day 12: Hike to Thame/ Monastery
Day 13: Rest Day
Day 14: Monjo
Day 15: Lukla
Day 16 Kathmandu
Day 17-18 Kathmandu (allows for flight delays out of Lukla)
Home: guides will take you to the airport for international departures

* e-mail : mingmardorji@gmail.com

* Source :  – Everest Panorama- Photographic Tour 2009.

** Previous story  : – Trekking

- oryginal post by : – http://himalman.wordpress.com/

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

MSRP: $99.95

Weight: 235 grams (8.3 ounces)

This past winter in Patagonia I was fiddling with my helmet straps a few pitches below the summit of Poincenot. Forgetting to buckle up the chin strap, I started climbing again. Predictably, the helmet fell off and rocketed down a chossy gully. Back in camp, I scrounged up my spare helmet, an older Petzl Ecrin Roc, for the next adventure into the alpine. At 445 grams, the Ecrin Roc was by no means lightweight, and moving my head felt like exercise.

I picked up the Petzl Meteor III from the Moab Post Office in April and promptly took it to the tottering towers of River Road to climb Dolofright, Infrared, and Iron Maiden. At 235 grams the Petzl Meteor III is extremely lightweight, and throughout the day I had to tap my head to make sure the helmet was still on. The day was warm, and though my shoes threatened to slide off the creaky sandstone, my head stayed cool and dry. I was impressed.

Since then the Meteor III has been my faithful companion on long routes in Squamish as well as when teaching anchors on the Smoke Bluffs. Squamish in the spring can be unbearably humid, and this spring was no exception. Yet, the Petzl Meteor once again amazed me with its outstanding ventilation. The polystyrene impact liners are not only comfortable, but they also help the helmet stay firmly anchored to my head, never shifting or slipping sideways. Also, the helmet adjustment slides back into the helmet for easy storage and therefore doesn’t get caught on anything.

Durability is however an intrinsic problem with any lightweight helmet. My spare Ecrin Roc has taken volleys of small stones over the years, but remains sturdy and strong. The same can’t be said for the Meteor III, and such helmets need to be retired once hit by a big stone. I would therefore stick to a heavier helmet in places exposed to lots of loose rock and save the Meteor for areas offering more solid features.

The Meteor III is the best helmet I have ever worn, and it’s so light and comfortable that I no longer have any excuses to leave my helmet behind on any adventure, local crag or big alpine route alike.

Pros: Light; comfortable; breathable; cool orange racing stripes for speed.

Cons: Durability is questionable, but hey, that’s just the trade-off with lightweight helmets.

Rating:

* Source : – http://www.alpinist.com/

Kask Meteor III – PETZL.

Nowy kask Petzla. Wyjątkowy design, idealny dla wspinaczy, którzy chcą podkreślić swój styl.
- ultralekki kask wspinaczkowy (235g), znakomicie przewiewny – aż 87 cm2 powierzchni wentylacyjnej
- komfort zapewniony przez wewnętrzną wkładkę ze spienionego polistyrenu
- prosta i skuteczna regulacja wszystkich parametrów: obwodu i położenia opaski na głowie, regulacja przód / tył.
- cztery zewnętrzne zaczepy do mocowania czołówki oraz osłony na twarz VIZION
- dostarczany z workiem do transportu
CE /UIAA
jeden rozmiar: 53-61 cm.

- oryginal post by : – http://himalman.wordpress.com/

* zapraszam do subskrypcji mojego bloga.

From Booklist :

The year 2006 recorded Mount Everest’s deadliest season on record since 1996 (the killer season that spawned Jon Krakauer’s Into Thin Air).

To tell the story of the 2006 season, which made global headlines due to the troubling circumstances surrounding the death of a climber, journalist Heil, a climber himself, gives us extensive background (more than half the book is a prologue to the 2006 season, and while the backstory will be pertinent to aficionados, it may prove frustrating to those waiting for the real story). There is plenty of fascinating material here, especially the excellent profiles of the key players (including flamboyant Russell Brice, Everest’s most successful commercial operator, a larger-than-life figure who seems to belong on a movie screen), but as a chronicle of the mountain’s “most controversial season,” the book feels padded, as though the author felt he had only enough material for a long article. Recommend this one to mountaineering devotees only, but don’t expect it to attract the kind of general audience that found Krakauer.
- David Pitt.

Review :

“In this authoritative, colorful look at the grimmest Everest season in years, Dark Summit carries forward Outside magazine’s formidable tradition of high alpine literature. Nick Heil is alive to Everest’s majesty but fiercely skeptical of those hubristic souls who attempt to ‘conquer’ her. Through rock-solid reporting and vital prose, Heil leads us up into this rarefied world, step by hypoxic step.”— Hampton Sides, author of Ghost Soldiers and Blood and Thunder.

“Here is humanity itself, personified in exemplary fashion by Nick Heil, addressing the Everest culture’s lack of compassion and coming up with the right answers. Dark Summit is an extraordinary tale, ribboned with wisdom and profound insight, delivered by a first-rate storyteller. I consider the book not a sequel to Krakauer’s Into Thin Air, but an equal.”— Bob Shacochis, author of The Immaculate Invasion.

“Dark Summit illuminates the nuanced personalities of Everest’s modern commercial age accurately, with neither heroic romanticism nor guile. Nick Heil takes a critical yet objective look at Everest and the community of Everest climbers, and then leaves you to pass judgment. If you couldn’t put down Into Thin Air, you must read Dark Summit to understand what it means to climb Everest today and why anyone might accept the risk.”— Peter Athans, seven-time Everest summiter and The North Face athlete.

Product Description :
The inside story of the deadly 2006 climbing season on Everest.

On May 15, 2006, a young British climber named David Sharp lay dying near the top of Mount Everest while forty other climbers walked past him on their way to the summit. A week later, Lincoln Hall, a seasoned Australian climber, was left for dead near the same spot. Hall’s death was reported around the world, but the next day he was found alive after spending the night on the upper mountain with no food and no shelter.

If David Sharp’s death was shocking, it was hardly singular:  despite unusually good weather, ten others died attempting to reach the summit that year. In this meticulous inquiry into what went wrong, Nick Heil tells the full story of the deadliest year on Everest since the infamous season of 1996. He introduces Russell Brice, the commercial operator who has done more than anyone to provide access to the summit via the mountain’s north side—and who some believe was partly accountable for Sharp’s death. As more climbers attempt the summit each year, Heil shows how increasingly risky expeditions and unscrupulous outfitters threaten to turn Everest into a deadly circus.

Written by an experienced climber and outdoor writer, Dark Summit is both a riveting account of a notorious climbing season and a troubling investigation into whether the pursuit of the ultimate mountaineering prize has spiraled out of control.

About the Author

Nick Heil first wrote about the 2006 climbing season for Men’s Journal. Now a freelance journalist based in Santa Fe, New Mexico, he was a senior editor at Outside from 1999 to 2006. He has also worked as a climbing and skiing instructor, and has traveled extensively in Europe, Asia, and North America.

* Source : – http://www.amazon.com/

** Previous story : – Books.

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

Editor’s Note: Blake Herrington is one of few young climbers pushing boundaries in the remote Cascades. He completed a major first on the east ridge of Mt. Goode (read the Mt. Goode´s Megaladon Ridge.). Below, Herrington tells of his expedition, to the four-peak Gunsight traverse.

In early July, Dan Hilden and I, both from Washington State, made the short trek to one of the most remote spots in the lower-48—the southern end of the Ptarmigan Traverse in Central Washington—to attempt the unclimbed four-peak Gunsight traverse. The peaks are located in the Glacier Peak Wilderness Area near the southern boundary of North Cascades National Park. Despite their difficult-to-reach location, the granite has been called (by Fred Beckey) some of the best in the Cascades.

Getting into the area is an enormous undertaking from any direction, but we chose the “easy” approach that took only two days from the east. Getting to the Gunsights required a fifty-mile boat ride up Lake Chelan, a ten-mile shuttle bus ride, ten miles of hiking by trail and 5,000 feet of vertical, off-trail bushwhacking and glacier travel. Due to high winds this past winter, more than 600 large trees had fallen across the trail, and wilderness restrictions in the area preclude the use of power tools for trail clearing. Consequently Dan and I became expert log climbers on the approach to our camp on the east side of the peaks, just below the Blue glacier.

On the morning of July 9, we circled along the west side of the Gunsight Peaks along the Chickamin glacier to the northern terminus of the ridge. Beginning with a pitch of steep, splitter granite hand cracks, we gained the ridge crest and began climbing north. We completed the traverse of all four named summits: Northeast, North, Middle and South Gunsight (all between 8,000 and 8,200′) by climbing the obvious line. We ascended the north faces on solid rock with good protection and rappelled the south sides.

We encountered three pitches of 5.10 crack climbing; we used one point of aid to pendulum out of a dead-end fist crack near the summit of the North Peak. The lack of a headlamp forced us to do the final pitch on the South peak and the descent, which included a free-hanging rappel over a moat onto the Blue glacier, in almost total darkness.

It is exciting that our route, Gunrunner (IV 5.10 A1, 18 pitches, ca. 1,500′ of gain and .75 miles long), had never been climbed despite the quality of rock and amazing location. Then again, only a handful of climbers are willing to carry heavy gear into such a remote destination. Of the eighteen pitches on Gunrunner, it is possible that only three (in the notch between North Gunsight and Middle Gunsight) had been climbed previously.

We made two other ascents during our trip: a new route, Accidental Discharge (II 5.10, 3 pitches), on the east face of South Gunsight on July 8, and the second ascent of Middle Gunsight’s east face (III 5.10d, 7 pitches) on July 10. Avoid Accidental Discharge unless you are looking for a broken, scary offwidth/chimney/dike.

Dan Hilden and myself have a combined age of just forty-one, less than half as old as Fred Beckey, whose 1940 first ascent signature still resides in the tiny register atop North Gunsight.

* Source : – http://www.alpinist.com/ – http://blakeclimbs.blogspot.com/

** Previous story  : – Rock climbing.

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

Editor’s Note: Blake Herrington is one of few young climbers pushing boundaries in the remote Cascades. He completed the first traverse of the Gunsight Range in the Cascades of Washington State (read the Gunsight Range Traverse). Below, Herrington tells of his expedition (summer 2007), to the the east ridge of Mt. Goode.

Earlier this summer Dan Hilden and I decided to begin a major enchainment with a trip up the unclimbed east ridge of Mt. Goode (9,220′), a peak in Washington’s North Cascades National Park. The peak is frequented because of the famous Beckey route on its north side (Northeast Buttress: IV 5.5). Grossly underestimating the size of the east ridge, we bailed after completing only a few pitches of the route.

Ambition is a good thing, and for a climber, maybe even a necessary thing. However, once I realized just how big Goode’s east ridge was—and after we made an exposed ten-rappel descent down an unclimbed, unknown face—I began questioning my ambition. But thoughts of this “big fish” would not go away. So Sol Wertkin and I, both from Bellingham, WA, returned to Mt. Goode on September 5, with an eye on climbing the line.

Goode’s brittle rock does not have a stellar reputation. Nevertheless, it is amazing that such a major line on one of the range’s largest peaks had not been climbed. Most pictures don’t do the scale and exposure justice—the route is long and committing, with 5,000 feet of exposure to the north and 4,000 to the south. True to its reputation, much of the rock is “distinctly alpine,” but the harder pitches offer excellent gneiss.

Sol had dubbed it the Megalodon Ridge, in honor of the largest fish ever to swim the seas, and on this attempt, unlike my initial foray, we came fully equipped—with the right hardware and weather forecast—for a demanding, grade IV/V route.

Although the tallest peak in the park, Mt. Goode cannot be seen from any road. After hiking twelve miles along the Pacific Crest Trail we reached the north fork of Bridge Creek, which deposited us below slide-alder thickets, hidden cliff bands, and rumbling glaciers 6,000 feet below Mt. Goode’s summit.

We soloed some fifth class rock along the east ridge that night to where the vertical terrain began. The next morning on September 6, we began climbing from our exposed bivy 4,000 vertical feet below the summit. Clouds passed overhead and occasionally allowed glimpses of looming gendarmes and the distant summit. After two hours of simulclimbing, we made one 50-meter rappel from the first tower of the ridge. From there Sol and I swapped leads and did running belays along the crest of exposed gneiss, finding climbing up to 5.8. As we neared the headwall of the southeast peak, the rock steepened abruptly and the climbing became more difficult. The direct line on the crest yielded two pitches of 5.10 crack climbing, and we afforded ourselves the luxury of a ten-minute break atop the southeast peak, the only such one we would take all day. From that sub-summit we scouted a path around the high glacial ice, and climbed through a moat atop the Goode Glacier to reach more technical rock that headed to the main summit.

The final crux of the day came when we attempted to descend into Black Tooth Notch, the last major gap before the summit. The traversing nature of this pitch prevented a rappel, forcing Sol to downlead an overhanging pitch of 5.10, which I, moments before, had dismissed as an option that “would not go.” My initial reluctance to lead the pitch meant that I now had to follow the downclimb across an overhanging face, with 5,000′ of snow and rock beneath my heels. Using perfect beta, which Sol shouted to me as I climbed, I was able to reach his sheltered belay alcove, and after a few more pitches of easier climbing we were on the summit, just as the sun was setting.

Our adventure on Megalodon Ridge (IV+ 5.10, 12 hours of climbing, simuling up to 5.8) was topped with an amazing sunset, a meteor shower and a perfect bivy: that night our heads were the highest point in North Cascades National Park.

The next day we took the standard descent via Black Tooth Notch and the southwest gully. This descent brought us to the south side of the peak and meant that we would have to skirt a forest fire and endure twenty miles of trail before reaching the car. For that ridge—or for any number of other unclimbed objectives, of which there are plenty—the long day of tramping is entirely worth it.

* Source : – http://www.alpinist.com/ – http://blakeclimbs.blogspot.com/

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

Area: Everest Region

Season: March – May, Oct – Nov

Highest Point: 6,812 m

Grade Level: 5

Ama Dablam 6,812 metres (22,349 ft), one of the most beautiful mountains in the world, is a technical mountain for climbing. Although the height is only 6812m it requires steep ice, rock and snow climbing. Normally, three camps are set in the approach above the base camp (4,570m), however, only two camps are used to spend the night. The normal route for climbing is South-West Ridge. The ascent from Base Camp to camp one is considered one the difficult days of the expedition. We follow old grassy moraine ridges passing through a saddle and then turning to north climbing up rocky ground and through boulders to the ridge where camp I is set up. From camp I, we cross a rocky bowl and climb the ridge frequently alternating the sides along the fixed lines to the camp II. Climbing the ridge involves severe rock climbing which leads to the top of a yellow tower. The climbing route here from camp II changes significantly with the steep mixed gully’s of rock, ice and snow. The route leads to the ramp and climbs to an amphitheatre and then passes through steep snow and ice runnel and finally, along the snow ridge to reach camp III. The summit from camp III requires steep climb on snow and ice to the right of a huge hanging glacier.

Ama Dablam 6,812 metres (22,349 ft)

Experience Required: The Ama Dablam expedition is one of the most technically difficult expeditions. The climbers need to have good skills on rock and ice climbing and technically competent. On most parts of the routes there will be fixed rope, however, the climbers should posses skills to climb through steep rock and hard water ice.

Day By Day Itinerary:

Day 1: Arrival Kathmandu – Hotel
Day 2: sightseeing of Kathmandu Day 02 Kathmandu
Day 3: Day free to organize gears and breifing on the trip.
Day 4: fly to Lukla. Trek to Phakding.
Day 5: Trek to Namche Bazaar 3,410 m.
Day 6: Rest day in Namche.
Day 7 :Trek to Tengboche.
Day 8: Trek to Dingboche.
Day 9: Rest in Dingboche
Day 10: Trek to Lobuche
Day 11: Kalapathar & back Lobuche.
Day 12: Trek Back Pangboche
Day 13: Trek to Ama Dablam BC 4,480 mtr.
Day 14: Rest on Base Camp
Day 15-28: Ama Dablam Climbing Period
Day 29: Back to Base Camp and clean Base Camp.
Day 30:Trek back Tengboche
Day 31: Trek back to Namche Bazaar.
Day 32: Trek back to Phakding.
Day 33: Final trek to Lukla.
Day 34: Fly back to Kathmandu.
Day 35: Final departure

* Source :  – http://www.sherpaclimbing.com/Nepal/Expedition/

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

Area: Everest Region

Season: March – May, Oct – Nov

Highest Point: 7,129 m

Grade Level: 5

Mt. Baruntse of 7129m. lies at the center of three glacier valleys, the Imja, Hunku, Barun and above the east and west col, infront of Mt. Makalu. The peak standing majestically in the center of some highest peaks of the Himalaya like Makalu, Lhotse and Nupse offers a rewarding climbing experience. The best views enjoyed during the expedition are of Mount Lhotse, Nupse, Everest and Makalu. This peak is technically not so demanding, comparing to Amadablam and Pumori, though it offers a good experience of snow and ice climb with some ice cliff obstacle sections around 700m. Fix rope is needed to ascent and descent especially from Camp 1, which will be done by our Sherpa climbers.

Mt. Baruntse of 7129m.

With 45 minutes flight and 10-12 days acclimatizing trek, we arrive to the Mount Baruntse Base Camp. The Base camp is normally established above the five holy lake “Panch Pokhari” at 5400m. and 2 higher camps on the mountain. We will climb the Mera peak 6654m. (trekkers peak) before heading to base camp, to gain a proper acclimatization.

After a successful summit of mount Baruntse, we cross Amphu Laptsa Pass and enter to Upper Khumbu region. The return trek will be enjoyable by visiting most of the Sherpa villages like, Dingbuche, Pangbuche, Tengbuche, Khumjung, Khunde and of course the Namche Bazaar, the capital of Khumbu region.

Day By Day Itinerary:

Day 01 Kathmandu Lukla
Day 02 Lukla
Day 03 Tukdingma
Day 04 Chhetrawa
Day 05 Kothay
Day 06 Tragnag
Day 07 Tragnag
Day 08 Khare
Day 09 Mera La
Day 10-11 Summit Mera peak
Day 12 baruntse Base Camp
Day 13-30 climbing period
Day 31 Rest
Day 32 – 37 Lukla
Day 38 Kathmandu
Day 39 Kathmandu
Day 40 Departure

* Source :  – http://www.sherpaclimbing.com/Nepal/Expedition/

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 led by Jan Lenczowski (Grandson of Jakub Bujaka – first ascent Nanda Devi East), the team : MARCIN MIOTK, GRZEGORZ MRÓZ, JAROSŁAW WOĆKO, NARCYZ SADŁOŃ, PAWEŁ SZLACHTA, TOMASZ WALKIEWICZ, DANIEL CIESZYŃSKI, GRZESIEK SOSIŃSKI, RAFAŁ SZENDZIELARZ.

Goal:

Nanda Devi East (7816 m ) – they will attempt to conquer the mountain using the Polish route from 1939.

Accomplishment time:

The attempt will take place between 20 April and 7 June 2009.

Description of the expedition:

The expedition will commence in 20 April 2009. The participants have obtained all necessary permits. They will attempt to conquer the mountain using the Polish route from 1939.

Nanda Devi is the tallest mountain in the Garhwal Himalaya, and the second tallest peak in all of India. It consists of two distinct summits, with the main peak reaching 7816m with the secondary summit, known as Nanda Devi East, topping out 7434m. The entire massif is surrounded by a ring of challenging and tall Himalayan peaks, which helps to make the region, known as the Nanda Devi Sanctuary, almost inaccessible. The mountain is also viewed as sacred to the Hindi people, as it is named after one of their goddesses. Many consider it to be the one of the most beautiful mountains in the world.

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 – in review.

Himalaya wrap-up: over on Nanda Devi East.

27.05.2009 Nanda Devi East – – it’s over.

Expedition leader Jan Lenczowski writes today on the Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 website, that forecasts show no chance of a window before June 7, the end of  accomplishment time. They organizing porters and BC is packed up.

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 team : MARCIN MIOTK, GRZEGORZ MRÓZ, JAROSŁAW WOĆKO, NARCYZ SADŁOŃ, PAWEŁ SZLACHTA, TOMASZ WALKIEWICZ, DANIEL CIESZYŃSKI, GRZESIEK SOSIŃSKI, RAFAŁ SZENDZIELARZ, JAN LENCZOWSKI.

Inscription : Nanda Devi East, 2.7.1939, first ascent, A. Karpiński, J. Bujak, S. Bernadzikiewicz, J. Klarner POLAND

* Source : – http://nandadevi.pl/

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009

– wyprawa z okazji 70 lecia polskiego himalaizmu.

Z okazji 70-lecia pierwszej polskiej wyprawy w Himalaje wyruszyła wyprawa jubileuszowa na Nanda Devi East.

Celem obecnej wyprawy jest przypomnienie o sukcesach Polaków w Himalajach i powtórzenie drogi z 1939 roku. Trzon ekspedycji stanowić będą młodzi himalaiści, mający już doświadczenie wspinaczkowe w górach wysokich. Wyprawa wyruszyła 20 kwietnia, powrót zaplanowano na 7 czerwca 2009 roku.

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 – relacje.

27.05.2009 Zakończenie wyprawy.

Niestety nie udało się zdobyć szczytu,  tym razem zwyciężyła pogoda. A oto jak uczestnicy wyprawy relacjonują jej zakończenie.

Wszyscy członkowie wyprawy Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 są już w bazie. Ze względu na fatalne warunki pogodowe oraz brak czasu na dalszą akcję górską, kierownictwo podjęło decyzję o zakończeniu wyprawy. Wszyscy alpiniści czują się dobrze.

Szczegóły w relacji kierownika wyprawy Jana Lenczowskiego: RELACJA
Atak szczytowy nie powiódł się z powodu złych warunków atmosferycznych (ograniczona widoczność i silny wiatr) oraz kłopotów zdrowotnych Jarka Woćko.

Szczegóły w relacji Daniela Cieszyńskiego z obozu II: RELACJA

Dzisiaj około godziny 10 czasu miejscowego, uczestnicy wyprawy odsłonili w okolicach bazy tablicę pamiątkową z inskrypcją: ” Nanda Devi East, 2.7.1939, first ascent, A. Karpiński, J. Bujak, S. Bernadzikiewicz, J. Klarner POLAND”. Pomysł i projekt tablicy powstał przy współpracy wszystkich uczestników Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009, z inspiracji Narcyza Sadłonia.

Relacja Jana Lenczowskiego: RELACJA

W Fotogalerii znajdują się nowe zdjęcia z obozu II i odsłonięcia tablicy.

** Źródła : – http://nandadevi.pl/

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 led by Jan Lenczowski (Grandson of Jakub Bujaka – first ascent Nanda Devi East), the team : MARCIN MIOTK, GRZEGORZ MRÓZ, JAROSŁAW WOĆKO, NARCYZ SADŁOŃ, PAWEŁ SZLACHTA, TOMASZ WALKIEWICZ, DANIEL CIESZYŃSKI, GRZESIEK SOSIŃSKI, RAFAŁ SZENDZIELARZ.

Goal:

Nanda Devi East (7816 m ) – they will attempt to conquer the mountain using the Polish route from 1939.

Accomplishment time:

The attempt will take place between 20 April and 7 June 2009.

Description of the expedition:

The expedition will commence in 20 April 2009. The participants have obtained all necessary permits. They will attempt to conquer the mountain using the Polish route from 1939.

Nanda Devi is the tallest mountain in the Garhwal Himalaya, and the second tallest peak in all of India. It consists of two distinct summits, with the main peak reaching 7816m with the secondary summit, known as Nanda Devi East, topping out 7434m. The entire massif is surrounded by a ring of challenging and tall Himalayan peaks, which helps to make the region, known as the Nanda Devi Sanctuary, almost inaccessible. The mountain is also viewed as sacred to the Hindi people, as it is named after one of their goddesses. Many consider it to be the one of the most beautiful mountains in the world.

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 – in review.

26.05.2009  The summit attempt not succeeded.

Expedition member Tomek Walkiewicz writes today on the Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 website that first attempt ended at around 6,900 m.

25.05.2009 The summit attempt starts tonight

Tonight Jarek Woćko and Daniel Cieszyński will try to get to the summit of Nanda Devi East.

Unfortunately during the weekend the weather changed at Nanda Devi massif. Visibility was restricted to 10 m and the wind was very strong.

Today the weather was a little bit better. Jarek and Daniel got to the heigh of 6900 m. Tonight they start first summit attempt.

23.05.2009 The Camp II set up

Today Jarek Woćko, Daniel Cieszyński i Marcin Miotk set up the Camp II at the height of 6500 m.

Yesterday they did not manage to leave the ridge and get to the height of 6500 m, where there is quite flat area to put the tent. They had to spend the night on the very narrow ridge.

Today everything went according to the plan and the Camp II was set up.

* Source : – http://nandadevi.pl/

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009

– wyprawa z okazji 70 lecia polskiego himalaizmu.

Z okazji 70-lecia pierwszej polskiej wyprawy w Himalaje wyruszyła wyprawa jubileuszowa na Nanda Devi East.

Celem obecnej wyprawy jest przypomnienie o sukcesach Polaków w Himalajach i powtórzenie drogi z 1939 roku. Trzon ekspedycji stanowić będą młodzi himalaiści, mający już doświadczenie wspinaczkowe w górach wysokich. Wyprawa wyruszyła 20 kwietnia, powrót zaplanowano na 7 czerwca 2009 roku.

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 – relacje.

26.05.2009 Odwrót

Niestety z powodu fatalnych warunków atmosferycznych ekipie szczytowej nie udało się zdobyć wierzchołka Nanda Devi East.

Jarek Woćko, Daniel Cieszyński i Janek Lenczowski wracają właśnie do bazy głównej.

Tomek Walkiewicz  – RELACJA

Nanda Devi – na zdjęciu zaznaczono prawdopodobną najwyższą pozycję (6900 m) jaką udało się osiągnąć Jarkowi Woćko i Danielowi Cieszyńskiemu. Punkt jest zaznaczony schematycznie na podstawie relacji ekipy.

25.05.2009 Atak szczytowy za kilka godzin

We wtorek, 26 maja, Jarek Woćko i Daniel Cieszyński podejmą jedyną próbę ataku szczytowego. Z obozu II wyruszą ok. godz. 3. W obozie I na przełęczy Longstaffa znajduje się Janek Lenczowski. Pozostali uczestnicy oczekują w bazie.

Jeśli łączność pozwoli przebieg ataku szczytowego będziemy relacjonować na bieżąco na stronie www.nandadevi.pl.

Tomek Walkiewicz z bazy  głównej: RELACJA

25.05.2009 Załamanie pogody, ale akcja szczytowa trwa

Miniony weekend przyniósł przełom w pogodzie, ale też w akcji górskiej.

Sobota:
Obóz II (6500 m n.p.m.) został założony ponad skalną częścią grani, daleko za zaporęczowanym odcinkiem. Z powodu trudnego terenu, wykopanie platformy pod namiot zajęło 1,5 godziny. Widoczność na górze wynosiła tylko 10m, w dodatku wiał bardzo silny wiatr.

Jarek Woćko z obozu  II: RELACJA

Niedziela:
W niedzielę nastąpiło silne załamanie pogody. W bazie padał śnieg, powyżej 6000 m n.p.m. widoczność spadła do zera. Jarosław Woćko i Daniel Cieszyński czekają z atakiem na zmianę pogody.

Tomek Walkiewicz z bazy  głównej: RELACJA

Poniedziałek:
Godz. 8:00 czasu miejscowego W obozie II widoczność poprawiła się. Jarek i Daniel zamierzają wyjść w ciągu godziny. Dalsze plany uzależniają od zmiany pogody.

Rozmowa przez radio Narcyza Sadłonia z Jarkiem  Woćko: RELACJA

Godz. 10:00 Jarek i Daniel dotarli na 6900 m n.pm.! Jutro zamierzają podjąć atak szczytowy na lekko.

Tumany chmur nad masywem Nanda Devi

23.05.2009 Obóz II założony

Dzisiaj Jarek Woćko, Daniel Cieszyński i Marcin Miotk założyli obóz II na wysokości 6500 m.

W dniu wczorajszym zespołowi nie udało się opuścić grani i dotrzeć na pola firnowe pod Wielkim Uskokiem, gdzie miał zostać założony obóz II. Po całodniowej wspinaczce na powietrznej grani, gdzie każdy błąd groził upadkiem w dwukilometrową przepaść, chłopaki musieli rozbić obóz na grani na wysokości 6300 m. Szczegóły w relacji Jarka.

Jarek Woćko  – RELACJA

Dzisiaj wszystko poszło już zgodnie z planem i obóz II został założony na wyokości 6500 m.

Na poniższym szkicu zaznaczono obóz II oraz 3 uskoki, które muszą pokonać alpiniści przed szczytem i które będą stanowić główny problem wspinaczkowy.

Szkic udostępniony dzięki uprzejmości Ricard Miquel z hiszpańskiej wyprawy, która zdobyła szczyt w 2004 roku.

** Źródła : – http://nandadevi.pl/

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

Biggest tragedy of Polish climbers in Himalayas on Mt. Everest -

- Mount Everest Expedition 1989.

Previously, the worst single accident on Mount Everest had occurred in 1989, when five Polish climbers died in an avalanche.

On May 27, 1989 died in avalanche on Lho La  : Mirosław Falco-Dąsal, Mirosław Gardzielewski, Zygmunt Andrzej Heinrich and Andrzej Otręba.

Eugeniusza Chrobaka who has survived in avalanche died next day on Lho La. He and Andrzej Marciniak successfully summitted Mount Everest on May 24, 1989.

20 rocznica tragedii na Lho La
w niedzielę 31.05.09 o godz. 13 zostanie odprawiona Msza św. żałobna w kościele na Wiktorówkach.

W 20 rocznicę tragicznej śmierci pod Everestem himalaistów: Eugeniusza Chrobaka, Mirosława Falco-Dąsala, Mirosława Gardzielewskiego, Zygmunta Andrzeja Heinricha i Andrzeja Otręby.

Tablica poświęcona jest uczestnikom najbardziej tragicznej z polskich wypraw w Himalaje, w której w maju 1989r zginęło 5ciu Polaków.

Wyprawa miała zdobywać Everest tzw zachodnia droga, zwana tez jugosłowiańska, bo to oni pokonali ja  z sukcesem w 1979r. Droga najdłuższa i uważana za najtrudniejsza, wiedzie przez tzw. Zachodnie Plecy i prowadzi przez Khumbutse, Lho La i bardzo eksponowany teren. Wymaga pokonywania wielu trudności, poreczowania, zabezpieczania szlaku aż do wierzchołka, a wiec dużo pracy dla wielu ludzi oraz dużo sprzętu. Z wielkim trudem całej wyprawy udało się “zrobić cały szlak”. Po wyczerpującej wspinaczce 24.05.1989r na Everescie stanęli Eugeniusz  Chrobak i Andrzej Marciniak.

Tragedia rozegrała się w drodze powrotnej gdy wydawało się, ze już są bezpieczni.

Na spotkanie wracających zdobywców wyszli z bazy Andrzej “Zyga” Heinrich, dla którego zawsze było  mało wspinaczki i Wacław Otręba, a w “jedynce” byli i czekali Mirosław “Falco” Dąsal i Mirosław Gardzielewski. Trzy zespoły spotkały się w jedynce w piątek wieczorem i czuli się tu bezpiecznie, bo tyle razy z tego miejsca wspinali się wyżej na szczyt, ze traktowali jedynkę niemal jak bazę, a przed sobą mieli szlak najczęściej pokonywany wcześniej czyli forsowne przejście przez Khumbutse.

Na przełęczy szalała śnieżyca, a w bazie czekali niecierpliwie, aż lada moment szóstka z Lho La wyłoni się z tej strony góry. 27 maja po 13tej w radio rozległy się trzaski, a potem usłyszeli głos Marciniaka o tragedii, o tym ze zeszła lawina z Khumbutse. Z lawiny ocaleli tylko zdobywcy Everestu, ale Chrobak miał złamana nogę i był w szoku. Potem zeszła kolejna lawina, a rano (28.05.1989r) okazało się ze Chrobak już nie oddycha.

Marciniak znalazł się w bardzo trudnym położeniu, pomoc z bazy była niemożliwa, nie miał zapasów, sprzętu, a na dodatek błądzenia w śnieżycy bez okularów spowodowały porażenie wzroku, był “ślepy”. Znalazł jednak na tym śnieżnym pustkowiu namiot, a w nim trochę jedzenia i gazu oraz lekarstwo na oczy. To znalezisko było niemal cudem, tak jak cudem było zachowanie łączności z baza i bezprecedensowa akcja ratunkowa przez Tybet, która pozwoliła mu ocaleć.

Marciniak został uratowany po skomplikowanej akcji ratunkowej, zoraganizowanej przez Artura Hajzer, w której uczestniczyli m.in. : Rob Hall i Garry Ball.

O samej akcji ratunkowej w kolejnych postach.

* zobacz też :

- Breaking news: Piotr Morawski lost on Dhaulagiri. Piotr Morawski zginął na Dhaulagiri. /Version english and polish/

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.